Taste of the Valley: Digging it at Napa’s Lobster Shack

By SASHA PAULSEN
Register Features Editor

I once spent a winter living on Plum Island Sound in Ipswich, Mass., and there made the acquaintance of the regional specialty, the clam. It’s the local fast food; cut into strips and deep fried, it’s quite tasty. My children were always persuaded they were eating caterpillars, but this only added to the appeal for the pre-school set.

The fried clams are often served heaped on a roll that resembles a smallish hot dog roll; the other regional specialty, lobster, is also served this way.

Neither dish turns up much on the West Coast, so like many who’ve passed some time in New England, we felt an irresistible compulsion to visit the newly opened Lobster Shack, which took over the former site of the Depot on Soscol Avenue.

This is the second Lobster Shack opened by Boston native Russell Deutsch and his partner Ed Rounds. They opened a similar restaurant in Redwood City last year.

Gone now are the malfatti and ravioli that made the Depot a local legend. The decor is distinctly New England roadside clam (or lobster) shack now, complete with that worn, sea wind-battered look and plenty of buoys. The staff, however, is friendlier and more cordial than anyone I met in New England, which I recall as a place of reluctant conversations, particularly if one was asking for directions. (“Well everyone knows you just go to where the Davis’ barn was before it burned down 20 years ago. …” A friend finally explained to me that if you have to ask directions in New England it means you really don’t belong there.)

So, at any rate, I was taken aback by the friendly, welcoming, downright chatty staff, who explained that the Lobster Shack opened “softly” in the last couple of weeks, and is reserving its grand opening until it receives its liquor license sometime in the next couple of weeks.

I was also somewhat startled by the prices — $17.75 for a lobster roll; $13.75 for a clam roll. But then I recalled that I was after all in Napa, and all these clams hadn’t just recently been extracted from local waters.

The clams and lobster rolls are only two items on an extensive menu that includes New England “chowdahs” ($5.75 and $7); “Shacktails” (shrimp $9.75-$14.75); fish and chips ($9.75-$12.75);  and “large plates” — the Captain’s Platter ($21.75) is fried fish, shrimp and clams, with cole slaw and a choice of rice, fries, red potatoes or vegetables; a fried clam plate is $21.75; two Peeky Toe Crabcakes are $13.75.

One can also order a whole lobster — at the market price — or daily fresh specials. The day we were there, one special was a savory lobster bisque ($6.75) with generous chunks of lobster in a creamy soup.

Desserts are also distinctly New England: Blueberry bread pudding ($5), blueberry pie with or without ice cream ($5); and vanilla ice cream with maple syrup ($3).

The only disappointment we found on the menu was the Crabmeat Louie ($16.75 full; $12.75 half). I ordered it expecting to get the greens laced with those delectable pieces of Dungeness crab (which I missed the whole time I was in New England), and instead found it festooned with lacy shreds of something that in no way resembled Dungeness. I first thought — aghast— it was canned, but no, it’s not; it’s Maine crab flown in with the lobsters and clams. I understand from an East Coast foodie that your taste for crab is based on what you ate as a youngster, therefore she can’t get enthusiastic over Dungeness, and this is probably why I’d take my Louie with Dungeness.

Nonetheless, this place appears to be the real deal, for those in need of a New England fix, and an inspired choice for its peculiar setting, in the midst of an auto dealership. It’s a bit of a gamble in a region that celebrates its fresh and local fare, but I understand that one displaced New Englander has already dined there seven times.

The Napa Valley Lobster Shack, 806 4th St., is open Tuesday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5 p.m. until closing, and Saturdays and Sundays from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. It’s closed Monday.

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