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It’s a sign, when a shared bottle of wine goes empty and you turn to a bottle of flavored water because nothing else seems capable, at that moment, of replacing the pure enjoyment that the original wine gave you. This is my wine affair with Stony Hill.

I savored every drop of the fresh stone and citrus fruits (made complex by lees stirring in neutral barrels -- no oak flavors here) of Stony Hill’s 2012 Chardonnay. My affair is much shorter than the McCreas, who stubbornly insisted that chardonnay be planted on their Spring Mountain property in the late 1940s and early ’50s. The McCrea family, with granddaughter Sarah today, continues to create the Stony Hill wines that were envisioned with those first chardonnay vines all those decades ago.

Same time next week, Stony Hill?

Catherine Bugue is the Star’s tasting panel writer. Her weekly pursuit of a good glass of wine provides a nice supply of choices for the Wine of the Week column. If you’d like to submit a Napa Valley wine for this column, please send it to the Napa Valley Wine Academy, 2501 Oak St., Napa, CA 94559. There’s no guarantee your wine will be chosen to be featured, but all wines will be evaluated and considered.

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