Hot mulled wines fit right into our wine country life, a cozy way to keep warm and festive in these remaining cold days before spring arrives. Known as Glühwein in Germany and Austria, and Vin Chaud in France, these popular hot drinks are a European tradition that is ideal to add to our repertoire of beverages.
On a recent Christmas Market cruise along the Danube with Viking Cruises, my enthusiasm for these hot wines was rekindled. Every city we visited had multiple stands selling variations of local wines, heated, and enhanced with different spices. Each city too had a unique ceramic mug that the wine was served in. A 5-euro deposit was added to the drink, and you had the option to keep the mug, or return it.
In Budapest, Hungary where the cruise began, we went directly on an early evening visit to the huge market facing St. Stephen’s Basilica, where we promptly warmed ourselves with a robust red wine spiced with star anise and cinnamon that kept us fueled and toasty warm as we shopped the holiday offerings in the market. In perfect timing, our drink was finished just as we reached the steps of St. Stephen’s Basilica. The following day, still in Budapest, we visited different neighborhood markets, and I was surprised to see not only red and white hot wines for sale, but also assorted hot fruit ones — sour cherry and pear among them. I later learned fruit wines are an historic Hungarian specialty. I didn’t try one, but I later regretted it. Everywhere, people clustered around the wine and food stands, chatting and clasping their steaming mugs. Although mulled wine in Hungarian is Forralt Bor, almost all the signs promoting them were in German or in English.
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In Bratislava, Slovakia, our next stop, the Christmas market ran the length of the main boulevard, spilling out on to the side streets. It seemed for every mulled wine stand there was a stand alongside offering grilled sausages or other local specialties. Here the hot wines were served not in a special ceramic mug, but in a highly decorated plastic glass, which I opted to add to my nascent mug collection.
The morning we docked in Vienna, its streets and markets were already thronged with locals and visitors alike, jostling for food and wine, heading to restaurants and heater-warmed outdoor cafes. Gluhwein, red and white, with or without rum or other alcohol, was everywhere. A particular café, one with blankets as well as heaters, directly across from the Cathedral caught my attention, and since it was still early morning, I opted for café mit schlag, a coffee topped with thick whipped cream in lieu of the mulled wine on offer, which I got later in the day from a market stall.
Linz, Austria, famous of course for its Linzer Torte, was a highlight on the mulled wine trail, as I came to think of my Danube cruise of discovery. I met an old timer there, who told me that over the years, the quality of the wine used for mulled wine had dropped, but now no longer. “Good wine makes good mulled wine. It’s that simple,” he said, directing me to his favorite stand. I had two mugs that afternoon, one red, one white. It was exceptionally cold that day and the wine was the perfect warm-me-up.
Our last stop on the Danube, Passau, Germany, didn’t disappoint. The markets were lively, the wine warm and plentiful, and, of course, cold beer was available too. Another mug of hot wine, one last sausage, and it was time for a final night on the ship. Hot wine was available before and after dinner, as usual, and most of the day as well.
Making your own mulled wine
A tip from a California winemaker — don’t overheat the wine or it will lose alcohol.
From the Linz old-timer — use a decent wine, one you would normally drink.
Mulled red wine
- 1 bottle Syrah or Merlot or other red wine of your choice
- 1 cinnamon stick, about 4 inches long
- 4 whole cloves
- 1 star anise
- 1/4 cup granulated sugar
- Half of one orange, sliced
- Orange zest for garnish
Combine all the ingredients except the orange zest in a nonreactive saucepan. Place over medium heat and bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Reduce the heat to medium low and simmer for about 20 minutes. Do not boil. Strain into a clean saucepan.
To serve, ladle the wine into heat-resistant mugs or glasses and garnish with orange zest.
Makes 4-6 servings.
Mulled white wine
- 1 bottle dry white wine such as Riesling, Pinot Gris, or Chardonnay
- ½ cup sugar
- ½ cup water
- 1 stick cinnamon
- 1 piece star anise
- 1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg
- 2-inch piece of lemon zest
- 2-inch piece of orange zest
- Orange slices for garnish
Combine all the ingredients except the orange slices in a nonreactive saucepan. Place over medium heat and bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Reduce the heat to medium low and simmer for 5 minutes. Do not boil. Strain to wine into a clean saucepan.
To serve, ladle the hot wine into heat-resistant mugs or glasses and garnish with the orange zest.
Makes 4-6 servings
