Tim Carl, Local Tastes: Piroshki: A traditional Ukrainian dish used as resistance

The piroshki, a popular dish eaten throughout Eastern Europe, including Russia, were usually filled with ingredients such as meat, cheese, potatoes or cabbage, but during the early 1940s Ukrainians also stuffed them with hidden messages, or, like a culinary Morse code, they used collections of different types filled with different ingredients to signify the time and location of secret meetings without arousing the suspicion of the occupiers. In the most desperate cases, piroshki were laced with poison and left behind for the advancing armies.

Today, like in World Ward II, Ukrainian piroshki have become a symbol of resistance and national pride. They are being made within the war-torn country and also across the world as a sign of solidarity and defiance against the devastating Russian invasion — an invasion that has resulted in the deaths of tens of thousands, if not hundreds of thousands, and the displacement of millions of men, women and children.

Below is a recipe for piroshki with both traditional and vegan options for the dough. Before we get there, however, here’s a brief summary of Ukraine’s harrowing history.

Ukraine has a rich and complex history that spans several millennia. The first known settlements date back to the Neolithic era, and the region has been home to various cultures and civilizations, including the Scythians, Greeks and Romans. In the Middle Ages, Ukraine was part of the Kyivan Rus' state, which played an important role in the development of Eastern Slavic culture and the spread of Orthodox Christianity.

Over the centuries Ukraine was conquered and ruled by various neighboring powers, including Poland-Lithuania, the Ottoman Empire and Russia. In the early 20th century, Ukraine briefly gained independence after the collapse of the Russian Empire in 1917 but then was soon occupied by Soviet forces.

During World War II, Ukraine was initially invaded by the Soviet Union in 1939 and then by Germany in 1941, resulting in brutal fighting and widespread devastation. Ukrainians were subject to mass executions, forced labor and starvation by both occupying powers, and many joined resistance groups to fight against the invaders.

The Ukrainian Insurgent Army was active in fighting against both the Nazis and the Soviets, and Ukrainian partisans played a critical role in their eventual liberation. However, the war resulted in significant losses for Ukraine, including the death of an estimated 7 million people and the displacement of millions more.

After the war, Ukraine became a republic within the Soviet Union until it gained independence in 1991 after the collapse of the USSR. In 1994 Ukraine gave up its nuclear weapons in exchange for assurances that Russia would not invade the new nation. Breaching their agreement, Russia annexed Crimea in 2014 and initiated wars along the eastern border.

Even under such challenges, Ukraine made progress in building democratic institutions and strengthening ties with the European Union and other Western nations. Still, on Feb. 24, 2022, Russia invaded Ukraine. That war continues today.

The devastating impact of Russia’s war is not limited to Ukraine. The entire world has been negatively affected, especially Russia itself. Death, dismemberment and displacement are the hallmarks of any war, but given that the world is more economically connected than at any time in humanity’s history, this conflict has resulted in everything from global fuel and food shortages to increased tensions between the United States and China.

The war in Ukraine can feel distant from our relatively safe lives, but the people in that country still need our help, and there are actions everyone can take. Beyond donating to Ukrainian humanity relief efforts and remaining informed and aware about the war, one small act of resistance is to help keep the Ukrainian culture alive and well. Making piroshki is just such an act.

Meat-Filled Piroshki

Start to finish: 3 hours

Servings: Fills 8 to 12 piroshki, depending on size

DOUGH

1 cup warm milk

2 teaspoon sugar

2 teaspoons active dry yeast

3 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

1 egg

1/4 cup melted butter

VEGAN DOUGH

1 cup warm non-sweet almond milk (or other plant-based milk)

2 teaspoon sugar

2 teaspoons active dry yeast

3 cups all-purpose flour

1/4 cup melted vegan butter

1 teaspoon salt

In a small bowl, combine warm milk, sugar and yeast. Let sit for 5-10 minutes until the yeast is activated and the mixture is foamy. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together flour and salt. In a separate bowl, beat the egg and melted butter together. Add the yeast mixture to the egg and butter mixture and stir until combined. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and stir until the dough comes together. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and knead for 5-10 minutes until smooth and elastic. Place the dough in a greased bowl, cover with a damp towel and let rise in a warm place for 1-2 hours, or until doubled in size.

FILLING

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 bunch of green onions, diced

2 cloves of garlic, minced

1 pound ground beef, pork or 2 cups diced mushrooms for vegan option

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

1/2 cup shredded mozzarella cheese (or vegan alternative)

1/2 cup shredded cheddar cheese (or vegan alternative)

1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

1/2 teaspoon fresh chopped thyme

1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill

Salt and pepper to taste

EGG WASH

1 egg

1 tablespoon water

VEGAN EGG WASH (optional)

1 tablespoon plant-based milk

1 teaspoon maple syrup

Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add onions and garlic and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add ground meat or mushrooms, paprika, salt, and black pepper. Cook until the meat is browned and cooked through, about 10-12 minutes. Stir in the cheese and herbs. Preheat the oven to 375° F (190° C). Once the dough has risen, punch it down and divide it into 8-12 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a circle about 1/4-inch thick.

Spoon a few heaping tablespoons of the filling into the center of each circle. Fold the edges of the dough over the filling to create a half-moon shape. Pinch the edges together to seal. Place the piroshki on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Beat together the egg and water to create an egg wash. Brush the egg wash over the tops of the piroshki. Bake the piroshki for 25-30 minutes, or until golden brown.

Enjoy hot out of the oven alongside a simple green salad, or refrigerate and enjoy as a snack on the go.