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It’s that time of year: time to start thinking about planting this year’s vegetable garden. It’s still too early to actually plant seeds or starts but it’s not too early to do a little planning.

By now the remnants of last year’s garden should be decaying in your compost pile. If not, removing any plant debris from last year should be your starting point. You want a clean slate in case any of last year’s plants were diseased.

Once you have cleaned up your garden beds, it’s time to add compost. Ideally, you did so last fall, but if you’re like me, it didn’t happen. Add a good three to four inches of compost so that plants have an ample supply of organic matter to feast on all season. Such a healthy addition of compost will reduce, or even eliminate, the need for fertilizer.

The time-honored method is to dig in the compost, but many people are now advocating a no-till approach. Digging breaks and disrupts the long, delicate filaments of mycorrhizal fungi that live on plant roots. If undisturbed, these fungi grow downward, branching out like a second set of roots and giving plants access to nutrients deep in the earth.

If the soil is tilled, this network of fungi will need to re-establish itself. When seeds or starts are planted without tilling, they can often hook up with last year’s mycorrhizae almost immediately, which gives them an early advantage.

However, soils with poor structure do need to have organic matter thoroughly incorporated into them. If your soil has too much sand or clay, if it is compacted, or if it lacks organic matter, then by all means dig.

Before deciding what to plant and where, take a trip back in time. If you are like me, you have maintained a garden journal to record what you grew in your vegetable garden each year. This information is critical as you don’t want to plant vegetables in the same family in the same place every year.

Crop rotation is one of agriculture’s oldest cultural practices. In a home vegetable garden, crop rotation involves changing the location of vegetable families each season. Crop rotation reduces damage from insect pests, limits the spread of vegetable diseases and improves soil fertility.

The vegetable families I use in rotation are Solanaceae (potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, peppers); Cucurbits (cucumber, squash, melons); root crops (carrots and beets); Brassicas (broccoli and cabbage); legumes (beans and peas); and leafy greens (spinach, lettuce, kale). Ideally, the same vegetable family should not be planted in the same place for at least three years. I find this difficult as most of my summer garden is devoted to vegetables in the Solanaceae family, so I’m often rotating crops every two years.

Warm weather in March tempts us to start transplanting tomatoes, peppers, squash and other summer vegetables. But it’s not the daytime temperature that matters most; it’s the soil temperature. Tomatoes want soil warmer than 60 degrees Fahrenheit before they really start growing. Our Napa Valley soils don’t usually reach that temperature until mid-April or May.

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Peppers and eggplant want even warmer soil. I have planted tomatoes in early April and again in mid-May and found that the plants start ripening at the same time. So you are not really getting a head start on the harvest by planting early.

Most garden centers sell soil thermometers that will give you an accurate reading. However, if you don’t want to spend the money on a soil thermometer, try the “sit down test.” Sit in thin shorts on the bare ground. If you can stay seated comfortably for 60 seconds, then go ahead and plant. Otherwise, your tomatoes will just sit there, too, and not grow. I don’t believe the University of California has done any research on this method. And since I have a soil thermometer, I haven’t actually tried this myself.

You have a few more weeks before planting, so sit back, relax and think about all those fresh vegetables you will be enjoying this summer.

Tomato Plant Sale: UC Master Gardeners of Napa County will hold their sixth annual Tomato Plant Sale on Saturday, April 14, from 9 a.m. until sold out, at 1710 Soscol Ave., Napa. Find more than 4,000 tomato starts in 28 varieties, from popular heirlooms to new hybrids. These Master Gardener-grown seedlings include varieties suitable for eating and cooking, plus cherry tomatoes of many colors, and early, mid- and late-season varieties. A team of tomato experts will be on hand to answer questions.

UC Master Gardeners of Napa County ( answer gardening questions on Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9 a.m. to noon, at the UC Cooperative Extension office, 1710 Soscol Ave., Suite 4, Napa, 707-253-4143.