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Compline

Straight outta Beaujolais comes this crowd-pleasing, juicy, spritely Gamay red. Harvest is over, the turkey is on the table (or leftovers are in the fridge!) and you need something hedonistic, delicious, and fun to drink.

Jean-Paul Brun is an acknowledged master in the region, and he treats his Côte de Brouilly — one of the 10 crus of Beaujolais — more like Pinot Noir in the cellar than typical, carbonic Gamay.

Côte de Brouilly itself is one of the smallest and southernmost of the 10 cru appellations in Beaujolais. Brun uses little sulfur but avoids the traps that befall less talented natural winemakers in the cellar to produce this clean, floral, lively and low-tannin red. Drink it with food (and relatives) or without.

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Ryan Stetins and Matt Stamp are the owners of Compline Wine Bar, Restaurant and Merchant, at 1300 First St. #312, Napa. For more information, visit complinewine.com.

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